Skincare advertisements flood our screens and billboards with claims that their ingredients hold the secret to tackling skin issues, especially aging skin. In the jungle of ingredient lists hides substances like collagen, hyaluronic acid, green tea extract, and many more.
Besides safety and labeling requirements, the beauty industry is largely self-regulated, meaning not all claims are backed by science. But vitamin C is different.
Continuous research confirms that this antioxidant does reduce the effects of aging, making it a promising ingredient for regular skincare. Now, a research team from Japan has finally discovered how exactly vitamin C does the trick — by promoting skin cell growth on an epigenetic level.
Aging Skin and Vitamin C
Our skin is a marvelous organ. Its many layers protect our body from external threats like UV radiation, chemicals, and microorganisms. But as we age, skin slowly deteriorates, losing elasticity and protective strength, which becomes visibly noticeable.
The outermost layer of our skin is the epidermis, consisting of five sublayers. Most of the epidermis is made of keratinocytes, cells in a constant cycle of renewal and migration through the layers, dying at the top to build a strong protective barrier. With age, this recycling process slows down, leaving our skin thinner and wrinkled.
According to the study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, vitamin C is already widely recognized for its antioxidant properties, supporting overall skin health. Long-term deficiency causes epidermal shrinkage in mice, and in humans. Previous data suggested that vitamin C regulates epidermal cell growth and specialization, but exactly how remained unclear — until now.
Read More: Your Skin Can Become Dry, Cracked, and Damaged in the Winter — Here's Why
How Vitamin C Induces Skin Cell Growth
As explained in a press release, the researchers used lab-grown human epidermal models that closely resemble real skin to explore vitamin C’s role in skin regeneration. These models expose the top layer to air while nourishing it from below, similar to how our skin functions in the body.
The team treated these models with vitamin C at concentrations typical of what reaches the skin via blood circulation. After seven days, treated samples showed a thicker layer of living skin cells, and by day 14, this inner layer grew even denser while the outer dead-cell layer thinned slightly.
This indicates vitamin C stimulates keratinocyte growth and division. Further tests revealed more Ki-67-positive cells, a marker for active cell proliferation.
The study also showed that vitamin C promotes DNA demethylation, a process that removes methyl groups blocking gene activity, enabling skin cells to multiply and mature efficiently. DNA methylation is one of the main processes of epigenetics, which encompasses all changes in gene expression that do not involve alterations to genes directly.
Best for Damaged and Aging Skin
The researchers found that vitamin C treatment triggered over 10,000 changes in DNA methylation, leading to a big boost in the activity of 12 important genes that control cell growth. In simple terms, vitamin C kickstarts the genetic programs that help your skin renew itself and repair damage.
This means vitamin C could be especially beneficial for older adults or anyone with thinning or damaged skin, giving it the extra push it needs to rebuild and strengthen.
Of course, everyone’s skin is different, and what works wonders for one person might not have the same effect on another. But with findings like these, it’s clear that vitamin C is far more than just marketing hype; it’s a science-backed way to help keep your skin healthy and strong.
This article is not offering medical advice and should be used for informational purposes only.
Read More: What You Need to Know About Vitamin C, Vitamin B, Turmeric, and Fish Oil
Article Sources
Our writers at Discovermagazine.com use peer-reviewed studies and high-quality sources for our articles, and our editors review for scientific accuracy and editorial standards. Review the sources used below for this article:
American Academy of Dermatology Association: How to Select Anti-Aging Skin Care Products
FDA: Cosmetics Fact Sheet
Journal of Investigative Dermatology: Vitamin C Promotes Epidermal Proliferation by Promoting DNA Demethylation of Proliferation-Related Genes in Human Epidermal Equivalents
Having worked as a biomedical research assistant in labs across three countries, Jenny excels at translating complex scientific concepts – ranging from medical breakthroughs and pharmacological discoveries to the latest in nutrition – into engaging, accessible content. Her interests extend to topics such as human evolution, psychology, and quirky animal stories. When she’s not immersed in a popular science book, you’ll find her catching waves or cruising around Vancouver Island on her longboard.
